Archer Drop Sleeve hack

by | May 13, 2016 | Garment, Sewing Projects | 2 comments

Lessons to learn from your pal, Natasha.
If you have never tried something before, don’t start by “follow the instructions” and “learning how to do it before moving on”, just dive in head first into something that you have literally no idea how to do.
SURPRISE WELCOME TO MY LIFE #thisishowwedoit

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Y’all like that superhero pose?
ORIGIN STORY, ENGAGE: A few weekends ago, I made a new friend in a coffee shop. Now, when I say ‘I made a new friend’, you should know I actually mean I obsessed over this complete strangers outfit and tattoos, complimented her on my way out, and then never spoke or saw her ever again. That’s how you make new friends, right?

She was wearing this beautiful mandarin collared drop sleeved drapey pullover shirt and I immediately made note that mama wanted one of those real fast. I has already printed and taped up my Archer pattern to make my first ever collared shirt, and was just about to cut it all out as planned, when I thought:
“Natasha, do you remember your new friend’s drop shoulder shirt? Do it. Pretend you know how to alter a pattern and do it”
And so it was.

I knew this shirt was already going to be absolutely ridiculous (seriously guys, I have eyes. I know that this print is outta bounds) so adding a bit more, let’s say, whimsy to this button-up was just going to make it even better. The fabric, by the way, is of course Yippee by Michael Miller Fabrics.
I used this very informative post on Shaping the Shoulder Curve by The Cutting Class and drafted a little bit of fun for myself. (get it? did you get that fun little goof I made?)

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From: Shaping the Shoulder Curve by the Cutting Class

I extended the shoulder line on the front two bodice pieces by 2″, but kept the bottom of the armhole a bit closer to the original pattern, as I knew that the Archer pattern fits loosely in the waist area as is. I then made similar adjustments to the yokes, and prayed on high that it would all work out.

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And ya know, it’s not too shabby. Once I had everything sewn up, I had to trim a few seams that were a bit jenky to make both sides match. I also ended up taking off about 3/4″ from my yoke as I had done something crazy and made it way too long (I can’t even explain why), but if my goal was droopy shoulders, I fucking slayed that.

However, when I had everything pieces together, I noticed that I had some interesting back nipples that I needed to take care off. By back nipples, I do mean that the fabric was bunching up around the lower part of the armhole and making it look like I had a nice set of back boobies. Front boobies, sure give me some more but nobody wants back boobies, guys. I tried to alleviate this by trimming down a bit of the back bodice and yolk to reduce the amount of bulk that was behind there. I also lowered the bottom of the armsythe a bit, which I hoped would be ok with the overall ‘droopy’ look of the shirt. As you can see, there are still some little nips, but I plan to flail my arms around wildly whenever I wear this shirt, so you will never be able to see it anyways.

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Also, LET’S TALK ABOUT PATTERN MATCHING. I was so god damn excited to pattern match guys. So excited that I completely and unimaginably failed so bad at it. I have never needed to pattern match before, but I was pretty confident I knew what I had to do. I lined up my front bodice pieces perfectly and cut away thinking I was the god damn kweeeen of matching shit up. Hot tip, there is so! much! more! that goes into it. You have to think of seam allowances, button plackets, pleats, all of that fun stuff that goes into a shirt and I completely and utterly forgot about while I was rotary cutting my cares away. But, ya know, this pattern already kind of makes your eyes bleed as it is, adding some chaos to the mix only makes the shirt more eye-bleedy in it’s goodness. Plus, you know, it’s like my front boobs are an ✨optical✨illusion✨.

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Alright guys, that’s it for fun printed cottons for a bit. Mama’s moving on to that hard shit. Wish me luck!
♥n

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2 Comments

  1. jill Thompson

    Well, shit. You’re my new best friend.

    Reply
    • Natasha

      BEST! FRIENDS! BEST! FRIENDS!

      Reply

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